Saturday, October 31, 2015

Castiglione del Terziere



What is Castello L.J. Bononi at Castiglione del Terziere?

A castle crowning the borgo (village), meticulously and lovingly restored by Loris Jacopo Bononi to serve as a testament to Lunigiana’s past and a spur to ongoing, varied, and energetic cultural activity.  

A thrilling repository of artifacts—manuscripts, first printed editions, paintings and sculpture, musical instruments and furnishings dating from the Medieval period onward—which delight the visitor with their beauty and integrity, and which express Bononi’s sophisticated understanding of the complex role that Lunigiana has played in Europe’s history and culture.
           
An international center for creative exploration and expression—a place where artists, scholars, and professionals from diverse fields and nations can pursue individual and group projects in a setting designed to encourage, aid, enlarge, and fortify their efforts.
           
A love-poem in stone, written by a man—poet, physician, and businessman—who espoused and enacted a radical freedom of imagination, and trusted that others after him would come to love and respect Castiglione del Terziere and its “castle ‘fortitude’—the fortitude of living alone but together, distant but united.”
           





The Castello and the borgo form a nodus, a gathering-place, a site for intersections.
Ours is a time of uprooting, Bononi said—a time in which “people are relocated, sent, called elsewhere,” as he wrote.  “I, too, emigrated: Rome, Milan, Turin, London, New York.  Yet I brought with me an amulet: the secret love for this place.”  And so, re-rooting himself in Lunigiana after many years away, Bononi developed his “castle idea,” as he called it. 
The castle is both a locus and a concept.  A way of thinking about departures and returns, and about what belonging means.  Beyond “the vanity of everything,” Bononi wrote upon his return to Lunigiana, “there remains the evidence of so much past and present civiltà.’”  And so he aimed to offer examples, in a setting at once historically realistic and beautifully intimate.  Following his instincts—sometimes stalking the evidence he sought, sometimes stumbling across it—Bononi assembled a remarkable collection of rare manuscripts, incunabula, cinquecentine, and other books, as well as paintings, sculpture, musical instruments, and rare furnishings and objects from all eras. 
Everything Bononi found and brought to his “castle idea” relates directly or indirectly to the history, culture, and people of Lunigiana.  And all of it is housed in a structure meticulously restored to showcase its original power, beauty, and endurance. 





The Castello and the borgo warmly invite all visitors who are keen to expand Bononi’s vision of a place of important intersections, to pursue their own intellectual and artistic projects, and to relish and share the bounties of Lunigiana.  

Come stay with us in Castiglione del Terziere!

If you are a writer, an artist, a musician, a scholar, a single traveler or a couple, or a small family, aiming for a place of beauty, quiet, isolation, and full immersion in nature, Castiglione del Terziere is just the retreat for you. 

We offer two large, newly renovated studio apartments on the ground floor of our stone house.  They each have a new kitchen and bath, and a queen-size bed.  They share a good-sized terrace with a table/chairs so it’s possible to read/work outside as well as inside.  We have wi-fi.


Castiglione del Terziere is ten minutes by car from the small towns of Bagnone and Villafranca.  The latter has a train station connecting to everywhere—by train it’s an hour to Cinque Terre, 1.5 to either Parma or Pisa, and 2.5 to Florence.  Lerici and the Gulf of the Poets are less than an hour away (and great for swims).  The nearby small cities of Pontremoli and Sarzana are lovely and very walkable, nice to hang out in.

Our village is thus both centrally located within Italy, and isolated and off the beaten tourist path.  Castiglione sits atop a hill in the foothills of the Appennines. The actual “borgo” (medieval village) is not accessible by any but the smallest, narrowest of cars—so most people park in the cul-de-sac at the base of the village and walk up the lane (a five-minute walk).  There are no cafes, stores, or any sort of businesses in the borgo.








Our house, which sits just below the amazing castle that dominates the borgo, is the old “canonica” or priest’s house, and before that it used to be the old “colonica,” or the priest’s peasants house; in fact, the two studios used to be the old stables.  The house is right on the little square of the village’s 18th-c. church. There are only a dozen or so full-time residents in the entire borgo; in summer, the population swells to a whopping forty or so people.  It’s remarkably lovely and tranquil in Castiglione at any time of year.  The views from our place are great—of the Magra River valley and the hills beyond.

The castle owner is a friend, and it will be very possible for you to see the inside of the castle (and its astonishing library—first editions of Dante and Petrarch!), and to meet Raffaella and her dog Mia, plus “our" little kitty Tristana, whom we feed. Plus other village cats and dogs, donkeys, a rooster…

You'll need a car; they are easily rented at any major airport, or in Villafranca (with advance notice).

Email: viadelborgo4@gmail.com

Monday, October 27, 2014